Tag Archives | Riccardo Tisci

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013

J’adore Paris!

There is no city quite like Paris and no fashion is quite like Parisian fashion. I adore many cultures and cities and designers, but there’s just something about Paris that you can’t forget.

Valentino:

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have consistently created lovely collections since taking over from Mr. Valentino himself – Lots of dresses, fabulous splashes of classic Valentino red, and red carpet ready gowns.

Leather, velvet, silk, chiffon, lace, satin, and eyelet all made their way down the runway – Along with the occasion statement coat and jumpsuit. My favorite look was the gold brocade coat-dress that Hanne Gaby Odiele wore down the catwalk – Tres chic!

Chanel:

The Chanel show is always a dramatic, eclectic spectacle and this season was no different with solar panels, turbines, and wind farm-like backdrops.

This collection included everything from hula hoop handbags, stark black & white, youthful polka dots, bright jewel tones, traditional florals, 80’s style fingerless gloves, denim, rompers, suits, wide-brimmed hats, and strappy wedges. I especially liked the chunky pearl bracelets & necklaces, the polka-dotted strapless dress, and the cute Dorothy-inspired blue & white gingham.

Alexander McQueen:

The McQueen show is always something to look forward to with eye-catching, one-of-a-kind makeup, backgrounds, clothing, and accessories. No other designer can come close to the types of shows that Lee McQueen – And now Sarah Burton – Put on.

This season’s collection had an S&M beekeeper type of vibe with safari-style netting covered hats, bustiers, thigh-high stockings, harnesses & corsets, bustles, wide belts, and bee, wasp, and honeycomb prints. Excessive, rich, over-the-top, and utterly stunning.

Miu Miu:

Denim, interesting fabrics & textures, moody prints, and a mixture of silhouettes and lengths all gave the Miu Miu collection a fun but grown-up feel.

I love classic workwear style pieces so this collection was right up my alley. I adored the pencil skirts and sleek sheath dresses, and the retro vibe was to die for with killer furs, boat neck tops, visible pin-up inspired bustiers, leather gloves, slim pocketbooks, and long, demure jackets. J’adore!

Lanvin:

“Deconstructed classicism” was the theme and it came to life in sleek separates and dresses done up in black & white, bold, vibrant jewel tones, and silky neutrals.

The collection was sleek and sexy, the pieces modern and wearable. The embellished prints were quite eye-catching but the sleek pieces in navy, black & white stole the show in my opinion. All of the looks above are amazing – I would wear them anytime, anywhere!

Yves Saint Laurent:

New name – Saint Laurent – retro vibe. The 70’s were back at YSL with leather, suede, fringe, wide-brimmed hats, and maxi lengths all evoking classic Yves.

The details of this collection were what caught my attention – The slim, cropped pants, the white piping on blazers, the patent t-trap heels, oversized bows at the neck, and opera-length gloves. I especially liked the pants looks and shimmering, two-toned caplet was the piece at the top of my Must Have list!

Givenchy:

While the theme may have been the same, Riccardo Tisci’s sedated and minimal interpretation of Catholicism was a far cry from the extravagant opulence of the Fall 2012 Dolce & Gabbana show at Milan Fashion Week.

The pieces may have been stark – Done up in mostly black & white with severe cuts – But they were still dramatic and eye-catching. I adored the black & white frocks, the flattering tunic-vests, the subtle ruffles, and the thick metallic chokers.

Stella McCartney:

The Stella show was bold in both color and silhouette – Her usual oversized, boy-meets-girl style got spiced up with wrap dresses, jumpsuits, and racerback tops.

The suits and the minimalistic pieces are always my favorite – Though the patchwork prints and cheerleader skirts last season proved that she’s got more up her sleeve. The safari-style tops were cute and versatile and the green she showed was right up my alley!

Louis Vuitton:

The LV collection was awash in checkered patterns, bright hues, and in a fun change of pace Mr. Jacobs had all of his models strut their stuff down the runway in pairs.

The mod feeling to the show was modernized by the eye-catching prints. The accessories were cute but minimally applied – Bow adorned headbands, checkered flats, and small patterned daybags. Fun, flirty, and oh-so-wearable. Just what Marc Jacobs does best!

Chloe:

The Chloe collection was primarily black and white with some splashes of burnt orange and fleshy pink throw in for good measure. Very French. Very feminine. Very Sweet.

The silhouettes ranged from oversized and exaggerated to romantic and womanly. While the colors, fabrics, and prints ran the gamut from black & white velvet to salmon stripes to sheer purple ruffles.

Balmain:

The Balmain collection brought to mind the 90’s with power suits, big shoulders, loud prints, thick belts, and plunging necklines. All with a Parisian, Balmain spin on them.

Stripes & checkers, bold yellow, oversized hoop earrings, metallic accessories, midriff baring tops, denim, and oversized blazers all had me checking the models faces to see if Cindy, Linda, Naomi, or Christy were there.

Christian Dior:

Raf’s debut collection for Dior was full of dichotomies – Stark but romantic, minimal but dramatic. He played with colors, prints, lengths, and silhouettes while still presenting a very Dior collection.

The suits and coat-dresses were my favorite, they came in different cuts and lengths, but were utterly chic and utterly timeless. The kinds of pieces that you invest in and wear for the rest of your life.

Sources: Style.com, Fashionologie, The Stylist, & Tom & Lorenzo

Previous Paris Fashion Week Collections: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012, Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion, Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 Part I, Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part II, and Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion.

Additional reviews, photographs, shows, and videos: Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and the Tectonic Shifts of the Paris Fashion Establishment from Business Of Fashion, FabSugar’s Paris Fashion Week Diary, Precious Details from The Man Repeller, and Derek Blasberg’s A Photo Diary From Paris Fashion Week.

Which Paris Fashion Week show was your favorite? Do you like the classic, Paris Fashion Week institutions like Chanel and Valentino best or newer, more modern houses like Chloe and Alexander McQueen?

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Couture Couture Couture

Phenomenal. Breathtaking. Eye-Catching. Dreamy. Unbelievable. Divine.

Those are all words that I could easily use to describe the Fall 2012 Couture collections that were shown in Paris this past week. The locations ranged from the Grand Palais to the Ritz Hotel to the Musée Bourdelle, and the themes ran the gamut from old school glamour to futuristic to Game of Thrones.

Yes. Game of Thrones.

The big story this season was Raf Simons’s inaugural collection for the house of Christian Dior after leaving Jil Sander at the end of last season. The show began with classic Dior colors and silhouettes, elegant suits, ladylike dresses, and then ball gowns that I can guarantee will feature heavily on the red carpet in the coming year’s award season.

The collection was anything but boring though with metallic belts, gorgeous embroidery, dramatic peplums, oversized pockets, opera-length gloves, bold collars, tie dyed pieces, tweeds, and reach-out-and-touch-them textures. It was soft and elegant and oh-so-Dior, but with a dramatic, extravagant edge.

Divine!

I’m not sure if I can put it any better than the fabulous Mr Blasberg who proclaimed: “In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape.” Curious how the phenomenal flower-strewn setting was created for this show? This video gives you a fabulous backstage peek at the process of creation.

New Vintage was the theme for Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Fall 2012 Couture collection  – “Vintage is depressing, but ‘new vintage’ is something to come. It’s preparation for something that could last.”

Bold plaid & checkered patterns, metal-tipped pumps, traditional tweeds, metallic silver tights, chunky knits, shimmery separates, slouchy sequined caps, oversized outerwear, maxi skirts and full pants, velvet coats, pussy bow blouses, Peter Pan collars, and dresses adorned with feathers, chiffon, tulle, and sequins all had a sassy retro feel with modern and sometimes futuristic-feeling details.

Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci is nothing if not detail oriented. His collections are traditionally small in size and he and his design teams & seamstresses really focus on making each look unique, one-of-a-kind, and highly intricate. His Fall 2012 collection focused on beading, heavy embroidery and brocades, leather working, fringe, and even sequins.

The restrained extravagance of this collection perfectly complemented the earthy, folksy theme that was somewhere between Little Red Riding Hood and Maid Marian. And I couldn’t have envisioned a more appropriate background than the lush green forest that these looks were photographed against.

While there was some of the famous Valentino red at the end of this show, the colors de jour were navy and creamy pink. The thick brocades and heavy embroideries in cream, peach, and pink played perfectly against the sequins, sheer panels, and flowing silks in varying shades of moody blues.

The details in these pieces were phenomenal, from delicate accordion pleats and metallic-laced brocades to dramatic floral cutouts and sheer chiffon ruffles. Chiuri and Piccioli have been getting their footing over the last few seasons and this couture collection seems to be the coming out party for the new Valentino – An opulent, dramatic twist on the old school glamour and romance that Valentino is known for.

In the world of couture Giorgio Armani’s Fall 2012 Armani Prive collection offered up something wholly different. Wearability. Given that couture is considered an art form and that pieces in these collections can range anywhere from $20,000 to $2,000,000, wearability is hardly the word de jour. But with the full, flattering cuts, cool, pale silks, and touchable, midnight dark velvets, wearable was just what he presented.

These looks were all about textures – Soft, sleek, touchable fabrics that you could almost feel against your skin. The jeweled and beaded veils were one of my favorite parts of this collection, they added serious drama and brought out a mysterious quality in the clothes that took you to another time and place.

The Versace show at the Ritz Hotel was wild and fun – Xena Warrior Princess meets Couture Barbie. The Versace woman is strong, fierce, and fearless, she embraces her sexuality and loves to show some skin. These clothes are not for the faint of heart, they were all about dramatic peek-a-boos, slashes, and slits.

Wide, tooled belts, multi-strap & buckle adorned heels, sheer cloth, sequined netting details, and spiderweb thin mesh gave this show unabashed shimmer, shine, and sex appeal.

The Versace girl is bold, uninhibited and in these clothes, she’s ready to party!

I always look forward to Giambattista Valli‘s collections – His esthetic is divine and I love how he always adds a little edge to his classic, ladylike silhouettes. And his second couture collection made me say to myself for a second time, Valli was made for couture.

And here in this dreamy place far away the moody reds and greens, organic prints, and flowing cuts & ruffles were all borrowed from nature; all-over muted floral patterns, applique and embroidered plant life, ruffles, flares, folds, and thick lace were all born of the outdoors. And with jewelry, accessories, and hairpieces evoking bugs, butterflies, and leaves, the theme was complete throughout the collection.

Rather than a fairy princess vibe the earthy tones and themes brought to mind wood nymphs and dryads – Woodland creatures who personified the various aspects of the natural world that they watched over; strong and eternal.

Sources: Fashionologie, Style.com, Tom & Lorenzo, TopCoat & FabSugar

If you’re curious to see what these designers have shown on the couture catwalk in seasons past here are a few links to try – Spring 2012 Couture and Fall 2011 Couture.

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Couture Love

The Spring 2012 Couture shows began this past Monday and made me long desperately for warmer weather and a chance to show some skin.

As usual Christian Dior was a ladylike affaire, with prim and proper silhouettes taking on a racy feel with see through fabrics. The show was primarily black and white with the occasional splash of lipstick red or bright purple. Prints like houndstooth, checks, plaid and stripes appeared next to florals and fabrics ranged from heavy tweeds and wools to leather to sheer chiffon and lace. All paired with peep & round-toed pumps and opera-length gloves.

How sweet is this? Maud Welzen was a 50's housewife in this traditional, Mad Men inspired knee-length, belted floral frock.

Lee Hye Jung's gown was intricate and complex, seemingly a retro bathing suit with a floor-length sheer skirt with paneling details and a cape draped over one side. All in royal purple. Perhaps not red-carpet reading, but striking nonetheless.

 
 
Dying to see more of the decadent gowns Dior showed? Tom & Lorenzo have a look by look breakdown here.
 
Giambattista Valli‘s second couture collection took on a hint of old school glamour, especially visible in the dramatic floral and patterned gowns. There were pants and sumptuous outerwear as well, but the emphasis was definitely on knee-length dresses and red carpet ready gowns.
 

This dress is everything the collection embodied - Black & white, exquisite details, sheer panels, embroidery, sequins and a buttoned-up feel with an edge.

 
 
 
 The Spring 2012 Atelier Versace show only featured a handful of looks, but they were dramatic and celebrity ready. Lace, sequins and rosette encrusted gowns, retro bathing suit inspired one piece looks and gold-plated gladiator heels.
 

A skin-tight icy blue-gray strapless gown with sheer lacy panels was one of the standout looks. Can't you imagine this on the red carpet? I bet Rosie would look just as great in it as Daria Strokous.

Lindsey Wixson was pure Versace in a neon yellow, stapless maillot with metallic detailing and armored heels.

 
 
Tom & Lorenzo didn’t love the Atelier Versace collection but predict that Lady Gaga will wear these pieces with pride! 
 
Giorgio Armani served up quite a show for his Armani Prive line’s Spring 2012 Couture collection. The first thing that struck me when I looked through the photos for this collection were the combination of fabrics and colors. Gold mesh, silver and green satin, navy knits, neon animal skins, midnight blue and olive-green sequins, Easter basket colored feathers and geometric prints on virtually everything. It was really a spectacular visual feast.
 

A striking pantsuit in varying shades of green and gold. The mesh-style fabrics made each piece incredibly distinct.

 
 
Want more pictures? FabSugar has a detailed look by look breakdown here.
 
The Chanel show was an absolute dream to watch. The color scheme ranged from blue-grey to powder blue to royal blue to midnight blue. The dropped waists and pocket-adorned dresses were my favorite – they were a chic, modern twist on retro favorites and the wide boat-neck collars were both fun and flattering. The outerwear was divine: floor-length button-up coats & suits, Victorian-style embroidered jackets over gowns, cropped bolleros with puffed sleeves… All done in beautiful fabrics – tweed, silk, satin, sequins, chiffon, and endless embroidery.
 

I can't decide what I like more, the 20's-inspired petal design of the skirt, the sequin-topped tights or the sheer black cap-sleeves.

The opening look was my favorite. The color is beautiful and wearable, the pockets & elongated neckline are cute additions and the multi-strap heels are the ideal finishing touch.

This sheath-like silhouette is anything but boring with the wide collar and rows of pockets. And of course the best shoes I've seen from the shows so far.

Lust! A floor length, double-breasted, wide-necked coat with slouchy pockets done in a brilliant blue? I'll take three!

 
Ready to see all of the gowns that will be showing up on red carpets the world over in the next few weeks? Welcome to Elie Saab. Celebrity outfitter extraordinaire! If I had to describe this collection in one word it would be dreamy. The pale, creamy pastels, the subtle shine and sequins, the intricate detailing, floral embroidery, the use of sheer fabrics and lace to add depth… You have to give him credit, he knows what his clients want and he continually gives it to them – Beautiful, flattering, uncomplicated gowns that make them look elegant and chic.
 

So gorgeous! This one will be perfect for a tall, statuesque woman. Charlize Theron or Uma Thurman would look phenomenal.

This has all the beauty and detailing of a couture gown, but it's fresh and young, it would be the ideal choice for one of the younger ladies on the red carpet these days - Hailee Steinfeld or Chloe Moretz perhaps.

The wide neck of this powder blue confection helps to create a graceful neckline, while the slight trumpet flare of the skirt elongates the figure.

Oh, in the market for a wedding dress? Elie's got you covered - Just hand over your life's savings. :)

 
Visit The Fashion Spot or Tom & Lorenzo for additional pictures & commentary on this beautiful show. 
 
Compared to the light and airy collections presented by most of the fashion houses, Riccardo Tisci” Givenchy Haute Couture collection was dark, dramatic and filled with angst. The small show (10 looks) was organized into three sets – crocodile, crystal and black & white. The looks were complex and sophisticated as Tisci’s work usually is, but what I loved most was the softness of the low backs on the gowns, exposing the slender backs of his models.
 
And the strangest addition? Giant, and I mean giant, nose rings…
 

The crystal and sequin encrusted straps and the opulence and intricacies of the fabric were complimented beautifully with the loose draping of the sleeves and back of the dress.

Natasha Poly's art deco embellished loose white gown was divine. The floral crystal arrangements at the waist and the sequin-adorned sleeves were beautiful but I couldn't take my eyes off of the gorgeous collar.

Crocodile indeed! The armor-like breastplate was an interesting juxtaposition against the delicate embroidery and lace of the sleeves and skirt of this gown.

 
While many designers have found inspiration in the work of famous artists, Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest muse may have still come as something of a surprise to some – Amy Winehouse. Unlikely, yes and vaguely surreal for Couture, but stunning down to the last look as always. The hair, the makeup, the stylish… Dramatic, iconic and well done. My favorite part was Karlie Kloss’s orange beehive & silk pajama look, which she worked like nobody’s business.
 
 

Absolutely divine! Navy pinstripes mixed with giant burnished orange and navy polka dots and an orange beehive? Only Karlie could take this up another level to sultry.

That collar! Those delicate puff sleeves! The minimal slits at the ankles! All paired with a gorgeous cuff bracelet, snake-skin clutch, chandelier earrings and a cotton candy blue wig. It should look like a caricature but somehow it works.

 
Tom & Lorenzo has conflicting opinions of this show, which can you read here.  
 
The Valentino Haute Couture show was truly amazing, the collection composed primarily of exquisitely detailed floral dresses was made up of paper-thin layers of silk, lace, embroidery, tulle, chiffon and the delicate outerwear of heavier velvet and brocades. All worn with dainty, patterned court shoes.
 

One of the few pants looks this was no less extraordinary in its composition with lace and ribbon detailing, white-on-white embroidery and brocades mixed in.

The artistry on these gowns is truly phenomenal, the sheer lace embroidered with white flowers, the layers upon layers of virtually insubstaintial fabric that make up the floating skirts.

 
 
 
 
I’ll be back with the front row and street style looks from the 2012 Couture shows tomorrow or Tuesday!
 
 
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Fall 2011 Couture

The Couture shows in Paris always evoke images of sumptuous frivolity for me, I imagine Marie Antoinette as the original Couture It Girl (think Sophia Coppola’s 2006 picture – whatever the film’s critics had to say – the colors, scenery, costumes and settings were sublime). And luckily for us, this year’s shows did not disappoint.

Paris’s Fall 2011 Couture shows took place last week and between the gloriously decadent shows were the usual dinners, parties and openings attended by European jet-setters, fashion insiders, A-listers and Hollywood elite.

Alexis Mabille may have had one of the most unusual (and furred and feathered) muses of the season, taking as his theme the animal fables of La Fontaine. The gowns were adorned with feathers, lace, velvet and fur.

 

Armani took Japan as his major influence and while he shows some great pants-based looks, I loved how the pale watercolor florals of this sweeping sheath gown complimented the one of a kind Philip Treacy hat.

 

The 25 look collection presented by Azzedine Alaia was his first couture show in 8 years and ended with a standing ovation. And with looks like this one, who can blame the stunned audience. One guest was even quoted saying: "There's everyone else. Then there's Alaïa."

 

The Chanel show was all about the tweed suit and while some of the silhouettes may not have been the most wearable, there was a hint of Coco in each and every one. This suit turned gown with an almost ombre color scheme and fingerless gloves was my favorite, it definitely stood out in a predominately dark hued collection.

 
My favorite part of the Chanel show? The lacy black barely there masks worn throughout. Ooh la la!
 

Everyone's favorite fairy god-father did not disappoint this season, Elie Saab showed a gorgeous collection of gowns and cocktail frocks. And while I adored the navy blue gowns, dripping in sequins and lace, this sugary sweet fairytale dress caught my eye. Can't you just imagine Siri Tollerod skipping around a wildflower strew meadow as a nymph from Greek legends?

 

The Givenchy show was everything I've ever loved about couture. A handful of extraordinarily time-consuming to produce pieces with unbelievable detail and a mix of patterns and fabrics and textures. Even the most jaded of modern consumers would be hard pressed to look at Riccardo Tisci's vision and see anything less than works of art.

  

Jean Paul Gaultier has built a legacy on producing shocking and provocative runway shows, and this year's retrospective touched on some of his memorable presentations over the years, all with just a touch of Black Swan.

 

The Valentino show was the perfect mix of fantasy and reality, a collection that combined the delicate gowns of every girl's red carpet dreams and some ornate, but wearable, outerwear and extras. And while gowns in Valentino-red made an appearance, this look really caught my eye. I love the shade and fabric of the coat, the buttons and neckline and the dreamy, far-away look on the model's face.

And after all the gorgeous but high-maintenance clothing that we’ve all come to expect from the couture lines, Bouchra Jarrar and Anne Valerie Hash were a breath of tulle and lace-free fresh air.
 

I love the creamy colors and relaxed lines of these separates (Anne Valerie Hash), especially the top with the slightly ruffled sleeves & dainty buttons.

 

Bouchra Jarrar's collection was primarily black, white and dove grey, with striking splashes of cobalt blue. I'm a big fan of suits, so I love it when a designer shows interesting or unique details like the neckline on this cropped jacket.

 
The couture season is always home to a few wildcards, someone whose creativity and showmanship outweigh their desire to produce clothing that most women could feasibly done in their lifetimes (except Daphne Guinness of course, she can wear anything) and this year the house that took the cake for the most out-there, never going to be worn on the street look was…
 

Bill Gaytten for Christian Dior. Holy overkill Batman!

And finally, congratulations go to Giambattista Valli who showed his first couture collection this past week. A collection, I might add, that’s production seems to say “don’t let the economy get you down!”

 

I love the lines and exquisite simplicity of this frock, embellished perfectly at the hem, neckline, sleeves and waist. Floral applique pumps are the perfect finishing touch.

The details were the real treat at Giambattista Valli, the headpieces reminded me of a cross between old-fashioned bathing caps and flapper headdresses, and virtually all the looks were cinched with a floral-inspired golden belt.
 
 
 
Stay tuned for my next post, which will feature all of the fashion-insiders and lucky A-listers who were blessed to receive invites to the exclusive shows and soirees in Paris this last week.
 
Au revoir mes amis!
 
Photos courtesy of Style.com‘s coverage of the Paris 2011 couture shows
 
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